Thanks.
Actually, I'm now finishing the last components of a WB-Assault-Rifle that has several new and inovative features of my own design.

What is the single most expensive piece on most APHs? The answer will usually be, the check-valves. These simple devices run at prices around $10 each and since APHs will often require two of these, almost half the money spend on a homemade might end up going into its check-valves.

In an effort to make homemade soakers more affordable in general, I have designed a very simple but effective check-valve, that can be built at home for the amazingly low cost of $3.60 each and takes only five easy steps to build.
These instruction will show you exactly how to build a 1/2-inch check-valve. You can vary the sizes of material for different diameter pipes.

The design and operation of it are basically the same as their store bought brethren. A short tube with a reducer at each end, a cone of rubber pressing on one of the ends from the inside and a spring that is pushing on the rubber.
The only parts you need are:

A 2-inch long section of 3/4-inch PVC.

A 3/4 x 2 - 3/16 x .062 compression spring.
I got those numbers off the box of springs. I believe that the first two indicate width and length in inches. The second to last number is how thick the metal is and the last one is the pressure it exerts. These numbers should allow you to find the exact spring, but if you cant, just try to find a compression spring that fits well into a 3/4-inch pipe and is not too long.

A  1 1/4-inch "CampBell Hausfeld" bike-tire valve.
These are easily identifiable by a cone-shaped rubber gasket. The rubber is the part you really need here. If you can find another cone-shaped piece of rubber however, it may work just as well, but these seem to be perfect for my purposes.

And two, 3/4-Inch female-smooth to 1/2-inch male-threaded couplers.



1: Following the instructions on the can, PVC Cement one of the couplers onto an end of the PVC pipe. Let this dry.
2: Insert the neck of the tire-valve into one of the ends of the spring.



3: Slide this tire-valve and spring assembly down the pipe. The end of the spring should protrude about a half inch out of the PVC.



4: Glue the second coupler onto the other end of the PVC to close it up. Remember hold the coupler pressed onto the PVC pipe with your hands for about 30 seconds, so that they do not pop apart.

You have now built a fully functioning check-valve in only a few minutes and saved about $6.40 on your next project requiring one of these.



I have not actually used these in a homemade yet, but I did run some pressure tests and found that they worked beautifully.

Thank-you Cobra, but I doubt he'll change his behavior in two days, or even two years.

Thats even more pathetic than this argument, which I am here-by ending on that note.

Seriously, why do you keep attacking forums?
Is it something for you to do when you're bored?

Thats damage enough in my opinion.
And what makes you think the picture is fake? 

Here's another one if you liked the first:

Ooo, my poor little wounded pride.

I care because I don't want you messing with somebody else's hard work.

And are you sure you want to say "****" to this face?

Two things.

A: Thats not the actually CPS 1700 I was talking about, thats a picture that shows the kind of paint-job I did on it.
B: Even if you took the pump out of the CPS 1700, you wouldn't see the reinforcements. They're inside the stem of the pump.

Try now.

While it does have an "Overall" and "Power" ratings of 100, its Encumbrance score is 80 and Capacity 90.
I steel reinforced its pump to help make it less fragile and gave it a wicked camo-paint job, like I did for my CPS 1K here:



The CPS 1700/1500 is not perfect, but its the best stock gun in my armory.

Actually I'd probably hang onto it, or give it to somebody on my team who needs a solid rifle.
Thanks for the offer though.

7 Bids already and these things often skyrocket near the end.
Looks like you're going to make some good money on that.

Are you looking for the pressure-relief valve?
If so, then it varies from gun to gun, but its oftain in the same area and is usually easy to identify. Here are some pictures of them.

On a MX-D 6K:
http://www.sscentral.org/tech/mods/cvf_3.jpg

On a CPS 2700:
http://www.sscentral.org/tech/mods/cvf_1.jpg

On a CPS 1000:
http://www.sscentral.org/tech/mods/cvf_2.jpg

If you look at these internals of a CPS 1-3-5, you should be able to find it now:
http://www.isoaker.com/Info/article.cfm?articleID=internal_cps135

So had Nibor run into this problem on another CPS 15/1700? Or was it a different one?

I see now, your e-mail address does match up to the account at Isoaker.
You were the one banned for sexist remarks and lying about your age when you signed up.

Looks like you not doing so hot here either, downgraded to a Probationary Member.
Tried to hack the forums and got caught at it?
Good.